To Josie Natori, Istanbul is the cradle of civilization. Where East meets West, antiquity meets modernity. And, translated for her runway, where opulence meets everyday. "I m a sucker for going to the bazaars and the souks," said Natori backstage before the show. "Istanbul inspired us in terms of shape and layering. It s an extravaganza of textures, embellishment, and layering for daytime."
And how. The girls wore extra-tall fezzes and bold hammered-gold bib necklaces and belts (handmade in Natori’s native Philippines) that seemed over-the-top in contrast to some seriously grown-up clothing. The designer crafted rich cashmeres and matelassé jacquards into dresses and skirts that flared to reference a whirling dervish s skirt. These were worn under fringed and embroidered jackets, coats, and oversize shawls in a palette that swung from calming black, gray, burgundy, and navy to bright chartreuse. At times there was one detail too many. But then Natori would show restraint with a great black wool swing coat with fake fur appliqués or a set of beautifully constructed, simple winter white dresses with trapunto stitching, and none of the tricky styling mattered. The best proof, though, was Natori herself, who took a bow in a shorter belted version of Look 32, a white-embroidered black wool vest.
