When Junichi Abe launched Kolor 11 years ago, he flanked menswear with a small women s spin-off. The effort eventually grew into a complete collection, passing somehow under the radar outside of Japan, but it is now being presented in Paris.
Abe did not attend today s intimate gallery installation. Displayed on mannequins and with no press notes to describe the pieces—the Japanese remain true masters of thoughtful subtraction—the collection nonetheless spoke volumes about Kolor s proclivity for mixes and hybrids, as well as a unique chromatic sensibility.
There was something Western/Native American going on here, in an echo of January s menswear: rusty tones, tactile decorations, moccasin-influenced sneakers, and blanket skirts. As usual, Abe played with the intersection of the masculine and feminine: layering lace over a melton bomber or a somber coat; slashing a trenchcoat into a long skirt. A dotted green pattern splashed onto dresses and blouses provided an eccentric touch.
This collection was probably Kolor s most accomplished so far. The layered silhouettes felt connected with the widespread preoccupation for urban protection, while Abe s take on embellishment felt considered and fresh. Sweaters and knits were particularly appealing, all rhythmic patterns and welcoming forms. However, things did not work particularly well below the waist: Silhouettes sometimes looked frumpy and a bit clumsy, with too much volume around hips and thighs. If he plans to succeed in the Western market, Abe will have to work a little bit more on his bottoms, while keeping his trademark, and hugely appealing, subtle touch.
