Today s Fall outing was the final MM6 collection not developed under the watch of Maison Margiela creative director John Galliano, so it s tough to discern how much or how little it s about to change. Focusing on the now, it s easy to make the case that this secondary line doesn t need that much tweaking.
This season, the team took Pre-Fall s idea of "sheltering textures" and expanded on it with a range of pieces built to cocoon around the body. Sleeves were elongated on everything from a ribbed neon cropped sweater to an oversize faux-leather motorcycle jacket. More tailored pieces were piled upon each other. For instance, a true-red knit dress was done up with a ribbed-knit corset, a pair of wool elbow-length gloves, and platform cowboy boots—all in the same color. Easy commercial pieces were given a slight kink: A wool boilersuit was sprinkled with glitter; a teddy-texture overcoat was rendered in red instead of the more traditional tan. The streetwear element came in the club-kid nods: sheer panels peeking out of a pair of bleached-out cropped jeans; neon hair extensions; "What s flamboyant for you is normal for me" screen-printed onto a sweatshirt; reflective tent tarp fabric made into separates. Knit bra tops and boiled-wool lace added more texture.
Sure, the concept was fairly clear, but more than anything this collection was about easy-to-digest clothes that managed to, in most cases, be interesting too. Basics for the not-so-basic wardrobe. Whatever happens next, that s not a bad proposition to stand by.
