Somewhere along the way, a runway show s measure of success went from being how much the audience clapped to how little it clapped. Now everyone has their Instagram-primed smartphones held up, like prairie dogs standing at attention in fashion s grasslands. It s still odd, though, to see a truly remarkable dress—in this case, Naeem Khan s sheer, full-skirted T-shirt gown covered in waves of silver and black beads—walk by in the final parade to near pin-drop silence.
Khan s stock has risen of late with the young Hollywood set. His runway stylist is Lupita Nyong o s gal, Micaela Erlanger, and Diane "Always on Point" Kruger is a recent wearer. Which may be why he focused almost exclusively on red carpet for Fall, forgoing the handful of separates he s shown in the past.
If it ends up that fashion week is a quick-turnaround dress rehearsal for the Oscars, the nominees are: a coral and red dégradé strapless chiffon gown; a black-and-white scallop-beaded gown with a deep, deep V-neck; a navy velvet siren with emanating silver stripes; and the aforementioned silver and black look. The spangled tuxedos felt too obvious—the moss colors were a tough sell—and the lattice looks skewed grande dame-ish. It was mainly when Khan indulged in more-is-more beading in the show s final black, white, and silver section that there was an approving hush.
