Chinese-born designer Vivienne Tam is known for her East-meets-West aesthetic, and it feels particularly relevant right now with the Metropolitan Museum of Art s Costume Institute exhibition China: Through the Looking Glass set to open this spring.
Tam s Fall collection was inspired by chinoiserie—the European impression of China in the late 17th century—but she focused on bringing it into the modern age. "I love that time period, but I didn t want it to feel too soft," she explained backstage. "Mixing in leather and high-tech materials makes it more urban." Tam has been experimenting with neoprene and mesh for a few seasons now, but she manages to avoid the cold, plasticky vibe so often associated with synthetics. On the shimmering fit-and-flare dress that closed the show, Tam paired tech mesh with a thick embroidered trim that mimicked baroque gilded Chippendale mirrors. It was so light bouncing down the runway that the fabrics didn t feel artificial.
There were also touches of a Victorian influence in the high, ruffly necklines and drapey blouses. Tam wasn t the first designer to play with that look this week. A completely see-through top with a jet-beaded choker neck even felt a little goth (another rising trend for Fall). The best pieces, though, were suited for evening, like the sheer chiffon gowns covered in embroidery or the weighty column encrusted in sequins.
