Yeohlee Teng often thinks about her fabrics before she starts designing a collection, and for Fall 15, she was particularly dedicated to her "no waste" policy. Instead of discarding the extra fabric from a jacquard, she used it on the yolk of a sweater or as paneling down the side of a pencil skirt. "Mathemagical," is what she called the results. "There s an artfulness in the repeating jacquards, but we were conscious about not throwing away piles of fabric," she explained. The collection was more or less comprised of Yeohlee signatures—generous silhouettes, color-blocking, and an "urban jungle" palette of black, pewter, off-white, and red.
But a closer look revealed some new technical details that Teng s customers will appreciate: For example, a black double-face cocoon coat had a graceful oval shape and reversed to a deep plum. Teng loves a two-for-one moment. Similarly, she played with proportions and visual tricks on a slick raincoat—from the front, it was sleek and double-breasted, but a top layer could be unbuttoned to reveal a zippered shell underneath. It was subtle, but the Yeohlee shopper isn t looking for bells and whistles. The boldest looks were the ones that channeled Sol LeWitt, with graphic curvilinear lines dancing across a silk draped jacket and flared trousers. They weren t technically complex, but their fluidity was enticing.
