“It’s all about rock and roll, but my way,” Elie Saab offered backstage before a show he called Melodies of Graceland, which he described as “feminine, subtle, light—even the boots are refined and elegant.” The show notes, which evoked a night on the town in Memphis, said the collection was meant to resonate even beyond Elvis and iconic images of Priscilla Presley.
Graceland by way of Las Vegas came with three F’s—feathers, flowers, and fringe—essentially used tonally. The feathers cropped up variously as tufts of ostrich plumes on a gradient blush knit, as trim on a glistening black satin trench, or full on for a Roitfeldian black feather-fur coat paired with over-the-knee boots. Florals took a dark, dramatic turn in romantic, fully sequined numbers in moody hues of mauve, khaki, and mustard, or appeared as voluminous swirls on a belted khaki overcoat or a white evening coat worn by Jessica Stam. Country-glam fringe was mostly used with restraint, and those looks were the stronger for it.
For daytime, Saab offered his rock-and-roll ladies his take on the essential jean jacket in dark denim with his logo styled in gold stitching at the shoulders like a Western motif; that piece was paired with a matching miniskirt, but two jumpsuit styles with swingy wide legs provided a more covered-up option. The designer also played with lace embroidery and macramé, working them into beaded paisley motifs with a ’70s vibe.
Beyond Memphis and Vegas, the Saab world is in full expansion mode. In April, the house will launch a furniture line at the Milan Furniture Fair, and in November, it will take to the stage for an extravaganza in Riyadh.
“It’s going to be a new vision of fashion,” Saab said. “Fashion, entertainment, everything all together. It’s going to be huge.” His son, Elie Jr., noted that having tripled business in the last five years, the brand is looking to triple it again in the next five. In the meantime, when the Elie Saab extravaganza rolls around next season, the designer’s loyal base will have plenty of swish, sparkle, and shine to choose from for the party.
