The Harlem jazz scene of the thirties and forties was Diane von Furstenberg s starting point for pre-fall. Picture Billie Holiday in a brightly colored dress, all bold shoulders, fluttering skirts, and narrow waist. Or in a structured plaid suit with a soft chiffon blouse beneath it. "Masculine marries the feminine" is how the designer described the overall feel of the collection, which also included slouchy men s cardigans worn over hourglass dresses in prints named after the Cotton Club, the Lenox Lounge, and other hot spots of the era.