Valentino retires after his couture show in January, but fashion waits for no man… or woman. Alessandra Facchinetti s pre-fall collection for the house, her first as Val s successor, was on display at the New York showroom on Thursday. The young Italian, who officially ended her deal with Moncler earlier this week, stayed true to Valentino s ladylike sensibilities, while injecting a bit of her own flair for proportion play, fabric manipulation, and couturelike embellishments. Elegant pod-shaped coats with belled, softly gathered sleeves were juxtaposed against tweedy suits comprising short, epauleted jackets and cropped, cuffed trousers. A narrow sheath was decorated with an origamilike fringe across the bust. For evening, which is of course Valentino country, Facchinetti experimented with high-necked blouses and long narrow skirts that tuliped below the knee, or floor-length dresses in which capelike sheaths were layered over narrow, belted columns. Going forward, it will be interesting to watch how she negotiates this old/new balancing act.
