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Viktor & Rolf

PRE-FALL 2009

By Viktor Horsting & Rolf Snoeren

For their pre-fall collection, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren were inspired by a seventies photo of a Russian girl. Fetishistically specific, but smart enough given that Russia is one of the label s major markets. This was the Russia of Brezhnev and babushkas, though, rather than that of today s glamorous fashion plates. The era made its presence felt in the draped construction, soft jersey being a big seventies thing. A floaty, multilayered dress in silk georgette, meanwhile, echoed Ossie Clark—it would have been a very lucky babushka to have such a piece. Otherwise, items like a flocked sheer overskirt layered over a silk crepe underskirt, or a tan trench with big, rounded sleeves, had a stolid, ladylike quality.