Anyone expecting chainsaw-hacked pastel tulle ball gowns in Viktor Rolf s pre-fall collection is going to be sorely disappointed. The Dutch duo has grounded its latest effort, dubbed "Paint It Black" after the Rolling Stones tune, firmly in reality. But that s not to say there weren t some clever, playful ideas. Undo the snaps around the shoulders of a cropped jacket and it becomes a vest. Do the same on a pair of knee-high boots and you ve got a sexy pair of booties. There was also a sharply cut double-revers tuxedo jacket, a bold beaver-trim gilet, and one very cool Barbour-inspired cape. And how s this for practical? Inspired by the success of their five-piece capsule collection of little black dresses, the designers added a white-shirt capsule to their lineup. The best of the bunch combines crisp cotton poplin and drapey ivory silk charmeuse.