When Phoebe Philo accepted her Designer of the Year statuette from the British Fashion Council last month, she was wearing an all-in-one from the pre-fall collection she officially unveiled this week. Deceptively simple, it turns out on close inspection to feature an invisible, built-in corset that allows the strapless jumpsuit to fall in a graceful line from the bust to the hem of its full pants. As ever, the inner workings of Philo s garments are just as important to her as what s visible on the outside. The linings of dogstooth coats inspired by members of the 1950 s British underground are bonded and taped—and eye-catching enough that you might be tempted to wear the pieces inside-out. As at her Spring show, fabric play was an important theme. Raw Japanese denim of different shades was pieced together with geometric precision to create a trompe l oeil dress (one of Philo s favorite looks from the extensive collection), and Harris and Shetland tweeds came patchworked to create what the designer calls "modern urban camouflage."
There s nothing more essential to the urban warrior s uniform, of course, than a statement coat, and Philo had plenty on offer in a sartorially driven collection that was very much in keeping with her evolutionary approach to Celine. Her acolytes will have a tough time choosing between a wool felt duffel paneled with iridescent PVC, and, on the more feminine side, a leopard-printed calfskin style or a shearling, goat, and curly lamb topper that will ring up for $6,800. There was variety in her accessories lineup, too. The popular Luggage bag is now available with a wider bottom and side straps, and Philo has introduced the Triptych top-handle bag, which has three zip-close compartments. She s also flexing her funny bone, adding gold etchings of makeup and loose change to cosmetics bags and coin purses, respectively. The seen-everywhere clogs have also gotten an update in new colors and with Velcro closures. In a word, or four, they look like money in the bank.
