Creative director Antonio Marras insisted there was nothing archival in the Kenzo pre-fall collection. If that s the case, then he has well and truly osmosed Kenzo Takada s design sensibility, because the clothes effortlessly touched all the label s bases. The theme was "urban nomad." The Kenzo gypsy was citified, with a dark, sophisticated color palette and a silhouette cinched lean with a wide belt. She was an urban peasant in a pintucked blouse with a print of Japanese peonies sprinkled with sequins, an urban cowgirl in blanket checks, and, when Marras played Kenzo s man-tailored gender games, she looked like a gangster in her fedora. The designer s own favorite look paired a serape with a wide-belted gilet over a turtleneck (and that fedora). Georgia O Keeffe in New Mexico, he called it. The turtleneck was Marras secret weapon. Team it with a cocktail dress and you had any-time-of-day dressing. "That s freedom," said the designer. That s also Kenzo.
