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Damir Doma s pre-fall lineup had the same multiethnic sensibility as his men s collection. "Bohemian techno" is how he described that show last week. The emphasis here was on bohemian, with capes and dressy shorts inspired by raw carpets, a high-necked blouse in a print lifted from an Oriental rug, and a pantsuit constructed from a tapestry-like fabric. Many-stranded necklaces of chunky beads added to the effect, along with even chunkier fur vests and coats.

Still, the results were resolutely urban. Doma confessed to growing up a Helmut Lang fan (he s Croatian but lived in southern Germany, close to the Austrian border), and he clearly absorbed the design star s modernist tendencies. The big takeaway here was Doma s strong yet soft tailoring.