For Donna Karan, pre-fall means back to work. The tribal mood of Spring was out and menswear-influenced separates were in. The color palette—black, navy, charcoal, and ivory—said business, too, but wide belts at the waist (definitely the season s hot zone so far), along with high slits on skirts and dresses, hinted at after-hours pleasures.
It s rare to see pants chez Karan, but they made cameos here; cropped and cuffed styles came paired with long silk tunics or wool jackets with strong shoulders for day. As an alternative to pantsuits, she showed coat-dresses both with and without sleeves.
Evening is where things heated up. A scubalike fabric that the house is calling duchesse satin jersey gave a sculptural quality to a white jacket worn over a bustier-top jumpsuit, and a big black bow made from the stuff added drama to a sleeveless ivory top and a narrow, inky blue wrap skirt. For the most part, Karan kept the slinky jersey dresses she s known for in the back. Adding tailored elements to gowns was the big idea here, big being the operative word. A black and white strapless number had the sort of gravitas a grande dame like Meryl Streep (a.k.a. the Iron Lady) could use to her advantage come Oscar season.
