Having thoroughly explored the Jungle (Jap) floor in previous collections, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon turned their gaze to the sky. Their Fall men s collection, fresh off the runway at Florence s Pitti Uomo, brought blue sky and clouds into their collection; their women s pre-fall outing kept it there.
This time around, the designers toyed with volume to mixed effect. Their double-faced neoprene cocoon coats and A-line skirts telegraphed capital-F Fashion but had an unfortunate tendency to swallow their wearers. The confections of tiered ruffles, riffing on the ruffle motif of Kenzo Takada s seventies collections, had a similar effect. But their masterstroke for this collection was to introduce a category that should obliterate any other: denim. Kenzo s kicky, affordable new look was tailor-made for jeans. Now they ve arrived, cut tight and printed with abstract florals, night-sky scenes, and a busy animal print called Tessellated Tiger. If it prowls like a hit, and it roars like a hit…
