Lucky the man who can while away the hours at Café de Flore in Paris and call it work. Peter Copping is determined to grow Nina Ricci s daywear brand and to be known for more than beautiful, romantic dresses. "I don t want to be a niche brand," he said, explaining a recent day spent at the Left Bank institution, where he observed the way the café s clientele (and what they re wearing) changes as morning becomes afternoon, and afternoon becomes evening. With those visions in his head, he turned out a collection as quintessentially French and feminine as they ve always been under his leadership at the house, but one that was also more diversified.
Copping used a wool plaid, for example, for everything from a draped, strapless shift to a traditional men s coat dressed up with a flocked velvet lapel. Outwear was an emphasis, as were separates. "Are we ready to see a camel coat again?" he asked, describing a narrowly tailored number in stretch jersey. Yes, in fact, we are. Clever knitwear (in this case, a trompe l oeil twinset that was really just one sweater) still comes easier to him than, say, hip-slung trousers. But he s certainly no slouch in the skirtsuit department, showing a "tweed look" version in silk cloque shot through with a bouclé thread, and another in ivory stretch wool. And, of course, when it comes to eveningwear, he s in his element. A light blue silk 1930s dress with flocked floral cutouts would make an unlikely but inspired choice at the awards shows later this month.
