The Florentine Renaissance was ground zero for Roberto Cavalli this season. Twas ever thus, perhaps, but the fact that he explored engineered prints based on palazzos for Spring didn t detract from the power of his new clothes. Where the pieces on his runway a few months back were bare and deconstructed—undone—these were super-fitted. They ll go the distance, while, admit it, the more editorial pieces from his ready-to-wear show were lucky to go all the way down the red carpet without a nipple slip.
For pre-fall, Cavalli has discovered the virtue of covering up. Long-sleeved dresses outnumbered sleeveless ones, and smokings, with shirts buttoned all the way up to the neck, were super-sharp. Fur came in real and faux varieties. In the former category, a patchwork fox had serious Glamazon factor. In the latter, a black-and-white skunk print was surprisingly appealing on a matching trench and flared trousers.