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Discussing her pre-fall collection, Maria Cornejo said, "I m figuring out what we d do within a more feminine look." Girly doesn t necessarily come naturally to the designer, yet if the exercise proved challenging for her, the results were as effortless as the clothes she s long been known for. No corsets or hourglasses here, but there was a new emphasis on the waist. Everything from a V-neck dress in ocean blue to a jacquard popover top and matching elastic-waist pants (she called it her "luxe tracksuit") was cinched with wide belts. Evening is another category she s exploring; she showed a few looks in a dramatic black and sheer stripe, but the standout was an ivory dress gathered at the front below a deep V—brides looking for a lovely if unconventional off-the-rack wedding dress could do no better.

Prints are always part of the designer s story, and she came up with a trio of powerful motifs here. The one guaranteed to get the most attention she s calling her "ode to Bob." Cornejo said the colorful image of Bob Marley was pixelated to evoke camouflage. Once a tomboy…