What s the French for "kicking it up a notch"? Damir Doma is keen to elevate his signature label, and he worked hard this season to get that point across. He s hitched up with the manufacturer of Maison Martin Margiela s shoes for a line of his own, and he made it clear that the quality of his materials (a navy fils coupe, a spongy three-dimensional mesh—texture was key) has never been higher. Since launching his women s collection in 2011, Doma has tried on different sensibilities, vacillating between artsy, austere, and hip. He s had his successes, but his clothes have rarely looked as grown-up or as polished as a pair of slim-but-not-tight sleeveless sheaths he did here. The version in a graphic green, black, gray, and white knit was especially compelling. Also sharp: a neatly tailored jacket with raw-edged lapels. Brancusi-inspired buttons and brooches spotted here and there on outerwear made for an eloquent finishing touch.
