Every designer is a mash-up artist, but Riccardo Tisci relishes the mix more than most. Africa. Gustav Klimt. Bauhaus. They all came together in his bold new Pre-Fall lineup for Givenchy—Africa in the primary color scheme, Klimt in the mosaic prints, and Bauhaus in the geometric color-blocking, not only on trouser legs and the hem of a tailored jacket, but also on a fantastic feather chubby, its plumes exactingly sheared to accentuate its graphic lines.
Tisci sees the pre-seasons as a time to reinvent past successes, so there was the Perfecto from last Fall, done here in trompe l oeil style on a wool coat, or shown on its own in a bright mosaic print. Spring s halter gowns also got a refresh; the best came in a butterscotch-colored plissé leather with a knit bodysuit underneath. A cherry-red sequined cocktail dress that draped across the torso was likewise reminiscent of his recent runway show. But Tisci looked forward, too.
He s had a personal fixation with polo shirts since he was a teenager, and they made their first appearance in a Givenchy women s collection today. Tucked into the cutout waistbands of long full skirts worn with flat men s shoes, their boxy, oversize shapes were all but camouflaged. He hinted that we d be seeing more of them in his men s show later this month.
