Last season, Markus Lupfer began moving away from the slogan sweaters that have lately defined his career. With Pre-Fall, that trajectory continues. He included just one novelty knit. "Leave me alone," it declared, a statement that neatly summed up the moodier girl he s designing for now. She s "the older, meaner sister of my girl from previous collections," he said. Where last season s cat motifs were cute and cuddly, here they were rather more confrontational. A graffiti print added to the toughened-up look.
Merino wool was once Lupfer s other calling card, but he s expanding his repertoire in terms of fabric. Of particular note was a brocade tweed with an iridescent sheen, a high-tech cotton jacquard in an oversized floral print, and a glossy velvet accented with diagonal gold zips, which we re betting will be a customer favorite. Silhouette-wise, things were short and sexy; there were frilly-hem mini and skater dresses in profusion. Next up, Lupfer will be designing eyewear with Linda Farrow.
