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Although there s plenty to be said for signature silhouettes, in the case of Rachel Zoe, lean, seventies menswear à la Bianca Jagger has become less of a trademark and more of a lifeline. The über-stylist s Pre-Fall offering gave the distinct impression of déjà vu—despite citing inspirations slightly farther flung than Studio 54. (It s Carnaby Street and Portobello Road tomboys this go-around).

The collection leaned heavily on the same slim, fit-and-flare trousers, tailored blazers, and disco-luxe maxi gowns. While flirty A-line dresses in neoprene, with mesh accents, may be untrod territory for Zoe, they felt familiar on the heels of the sporty Spring runways—and more than a touch out of place alongside many purely vintage-inspired pieces. There s no denying that the look Zoe does often, she does well, but whether it s one her clientele will continue to go for season after season is up for debate.