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This much is true: The rock-and-roll look does well for Diesel Black Gold. The onus is on creative director Andreas Melbostad to tweak his customer s closet staples—the Moto Jacket, the Black Pant, the Studded Anything—just enough so that she wants to buy yet another.

"Ongoing ingredients," said Melbostad, gesturing to a sleeveless georgette shirtdress decorated with flat circle studs. "This time with a 90s sensibility." Lightweight tops and high-waist trousers hung alongside not-so-basic motorcycle jackets: a navy version piped in red, a burgundy tweed style with quilted black leather accents, a black rendition embroidered and studded to the max. This season s denim was treatment-driven—supersized polka dots were printed onto a blue vintage wash, white geometrics onto black. But the outerwear pieces were the best bets, including a knee-length wool peacoat in gray pinstripe and a hip-length anorak in black or olive. Unlike the rest of the collection, there was little novelty to them. Just want-it-now appeal.