Martin Grant s Pre-Fall lineup began with a gray wool angora coat that flashed back to early Dior; its flattering shape was near flawless, as were the ensuing 17 looks. This season Grant played to his strengths—mainly high-class coats that didn t bother being trendy, and multipurpose pieces that measured up to any standard of sophistication. The designer noted that his outerwear sells early and well; hence the variety, from a sturdy military number to a swingy coat in neutral tweed. An alpaca sweater coat in shades of gray enveloped without excess. Much else was long, lean, and occasionally leopard; Grant said this was the first time in his 20-year career that he d used animal spots. Those pieces felt playful. Conversely, the suppleness of his mid-length leather skirt suggested much finessing. But for Grant that s common practice, and he singled out the Mongolian lamb fur accents that required careful tailoring to control the poufy volume.
Certainly, if you had any doubt that Grant s clothes could be easygoing, the model in look 3 may have overcompensated. While it s tempting to call his output ladylike, that would undermine his eye for fluid silhouettes that flirt in hushed tones (more audibly when slits are involved). Not every designer need be a provocateur.
