The Missonis seem to hold the key to longevity, both personally and professionally. Rosita, the clan’s matriarch, just turned 87 a few days ago, looking more radiant and alert than ever, and the brand feted its 65th anniversary in September with a theatrical show and collection that felt utterly on point. The family label’s aesthetic seems never to go out of style, conceding to passing trends without changing the essence of its cool, unique charm. Its archives are a treasure trove of pieces that still look fresh today, in tune with the fashion zeitgeist.
Case in point was a series of vintage oversize men’s sweaters and cardis that Angela Missoni reissued for Pre-Fall, just slightly adjusting their fit: making the volumes a bit rounder, using up-to-date yarns, and working on a more nuanced color palette. They looked quite racy, worn as minidresses showcasing long bare legs wrapped in matching knee-high woolen socks atop high-heeled sandals. The look highlighted a shift from the last show, where ethereal, bohemian silhouettes were swathed in layers of flimsy sequined knits. Here, the mood was more streamlined and neat. Pre-Fall references included Edie Sedgwick’s ’60s gamine look and the rough, homemade style of the ’70s Australian surfers of the movie Drift. Not many collections could get away with such apparently incongruous, clashing inspirations, but in Missoni-land it all blended into a delightful mix.
Sedgwick’s influence could be seen in the short, boxy, double-breasted city coats in knitted wools, whose color palette had a quiet vibrancy. Along the same lines, of-the-moment tailoring made an appearance in a slim-fit, three-piece knitted wool pantsuit: “The Missoni Technicolor version of the pin-striped suit,” said Angela. While straying from bohemia, hints of romance and a free-spirited attitude persisted in grunge-inspired blanket capes, elongated striped tunics, and languid patchwork dusters worn over roomy palazzo pants.
Patchwork is one of Missoni’s signature techniques, and here a limited-edition bomber jacket was made out of yarn and fabric leftovers from past collections. “This upcycling process is very important to me and for our company; we’re resolutely anti-waste and very engaged,” said Angela, who also mentioned the new alpaca project she’s involved with that has produced an oversize knitted cardigan in hues of brick, cerulean, and porcelain blue; made in Peru, it will be sold with a special label, certifying the sustainable provenance of the garment. “Alpaca is one of the most precious and sustainable yarns,” explained Angela, who spent time in Peru researching and meeting with local suppliers. “The alpacas are gentle animals that almost tiptoe on fields without destroying the vegetation, because they don’t feed on its roots, so plants and grass can grow again.” Cashmere goats, apparently, are much more voracious, and their extensive breeding has increased the number of herds to such an extent that they’re posing a serious threat to huge areas in Mongolia, which are at risk of desertification.
