For pre-fall, Elie Saab embarked on an imaginary gilded journey on the Orient Express, with Maxim’s in Paris standing in for the überluxury locomotive. Opulence riffed from the Belle Époque and Art Deco eras—saturated shades reminiscent of precious metals, gems, ornate woodwork, and Cordoba leather—blended with clean, 1970s-leaning silhouettes. Now, as then, the art of dress spoke to a deeply glamorous lifestyle tinged with mystery and decadence.
The difference lay in ease. A woman can’t live by eveningwear alone, so Saab continued to lean into day dressing—for example, neatly channeling seasonal cues of tweediness on a jacket in openwork wool shot through with silver on a tulle base, a move that will let that piece do nicely by night too. A peekaboo ensemble in printed macramé was, in fact, three easy pieces—a snap-front sweatshirt, a tank, and a miniskirt with a comfortable cotton jersey base. Another number in jersey had a lace-up detail that gave Saharienne vibes. Tonal dresses in burgundy, orange, green, and yellow placed the accent on texture through graceful draping, ruffled appliqués, and lots of plissé.
Saab shines by night. Another tactile play came in coated jersey with a leather-like sheen, worked into a black halter top and a green bustier dress, perhaps to layer with a fluffy ivory jacket in faux fur trimmed with marabou. A handful of statement pieces featured silver sequins that formed a zigzag motif; double-sided green-blue paillettes were smoothed to create a variety of dégradé effects; and rich embellishments in bronze, blush, teal, violet, and midnight blue evoked the cinematic glamour of an imaginary fin de siècle opium den.
This season also saw a fresh development in accessories thanks to a partnership with the London-based handbag designer Marina Raphael. The first outing—a structured bag in napa leather, pictured here, called the Wave, after its handle—is set to become a new house signature. Getting the bag bit right is key for any brand; it will be interesting to see where Saab goes with it.
