Stefano Pilati said he was partly inspired by seashells, but there wasn t anything overtly beachy about his Resort lineup for Yves Saint Laurent. Rather, the designer s stated influence informed the collection s subtle prints and the circular cuts of looks like a chic bronze silk cocktail dress (part of a new Editions Soir mini evening line). The theme also found a quiet echo in the spiraling Lesage embroidery at the shoulders of printed shifts and a long, gauzy white dress.
Everything—even the tailoring, which has been such a Pilati strong suit these last several seasons—had a certain fluidity. A deconstructed, unlined jacket topped a bustier dress, while the classic YSL trench was reworked with a shawl collar and trumpet cuffs. The designer cut an evening bolero inspired by couture in topaz cotton—"it s less pretentious that way," he said. Not to mention more modern.