The first thing you noticed at Celine s showroom presentation today: the wall of accessories. In addition to reorienting fashion in a more minimal direction with her ready-to-wear, Phoebe Philo ushered in a new era of small, understated bags when she launched her boxy, shoulder-strap Classic bag last year. For Resort, she s added a new, larger Classic bag to the lineup, as well as fluorescents and exotic skins. The designer s approach, whether to It bags or to clothes, is evolutionary. Just because the rest of the world has latched onto her vision and even tried to give it a handy label—"utility chic"—doesn t mean she s ready to hare off in a new direction. On the evidence of this showing, she remains committed to building an iconic wardrobe, and there s little doubt that in the short time she s been at the French luxury goods house, she s designed some iconic pieces.
The natural jute Philo used for Spring s popular A-line skirt and high-waisted, flaring pants reappeared here in the form of a collarless coat with subtle gold buttons and a sleeveless shift with not-so-subtle zips above the breasts. Her full trousers were cut in crisp white cotton and paired with a matching tunic (she also showed the look in tobacco brown). Her familiar evening all-in-one was demure in front and daring in back, with a low V cut. And the peplumed army jacket that you saw all over the front rows has been extended into a coat. An off-white silk satin halter gown suspended from a brass necklace summed up the collection—and Philo s MO—rather nicely. It was a subtle knockout.
