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Bally

RESORT 2012

By Graeme Fidler & Michael Herz

For Resort, Bally s Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz dreamt of St. Moritz—"summer by the lake," they said. For a leather-centric house like this one, warm weather can pose a bit of a challenge. "It s about finding a way to make leather for the summer," Herz said as a parade of models (top girls all, for what it s worth) stomped through the showroom.

The answer was, do more with less. Leather and suede appeared frequently, but pieced together with linen, cotton, and silk. A square-cut T-shirt alternated panels of leather and linen, and pretty printed dresses were finished off (perhaps a mite too decoratively) with leather belt bows. Even shoes got subjected to the cutout treatment: Sandal heels and flat oxfords were skeletons of their full-formed selves. Shapes emphasized volume, with A-line skirts, wide-leg pants, tunic tops, and trapeze dresses—room to breathe, in other words, which you d no doubt want while lounging by the lake. On the whole, the collection skewed quite minimal, which made for a dignified offering. If it was occasionally out of step with the print-mad moment (though a few geometric patterns at the end nodded at printomania), it was nonetheless true to the streamlined, aristocratic chic Fidler and Herz are making their signature at the label.