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Diane von Furstenberg

RESORT 2012

By Diane von Furstenberg

Stepping off the elevator at Highline Stages, guests at Diane von Furstenberg s Resort show were greeted by an enormous set, with walls and floors painted in black and white graffiti and a couple dozen stereo speakers arranged here and there. The tent at Lincoln Center it wasn t, and it s fair to say that the collection had a new vibe, too.

DVF dubbed the show Wrapsody Rap, and her right-hand man Yvan Mispelaere, who has already injected a fair bit of energy and youth into the label since his arrival, said it had a "hip-hop feeling with a romantic edginess." The hip-hop element came across in the loose, almost sporty layers and graphic, matchy/clashy prints, as in the opening look s slouchy green wrap jumpsuit and exposed black bra, or in the show-closing oversize anorak that topped an easy tank and baggy pants. A print that spelled out the collection s title won t make it off the showroom floor, but there were others here that were plenty eye-catching and with more staying power. As for edgy romance, drape-y, fluttery tank dresses (the brand s bread and butter) delivered on that front.

Accessories were no after-thought. Nearly all of the models came out sporting mirrored shades with bold plastic frames, while color-blocked bags, a Cruise trend, were slung across the body messenger-style or toted from the shoulder. They glowed purple in the dark when the lights went down at the end of the show.