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Business must be booming for Steven Alan. Demand for the designer s comfy-casual offerings has reached a level where Fall and Spring alone won t do; he s introducing his first full Resort collection, and he s quietly opened a second Brooklyn outpost near to his first, this one dedicated to his women s collection.

"Montauk in winter" was the theme he pursued for Resort. As Alan s label has grown, he and his team have moved from more item-driven collections to fuller-fledged, thematic offerings, like the California camping chic he channeled for Fall. Today you saw Montauk most in the colors and the textures of the clothes. There were sandy taupes, washed-out cadet blues—beach and sea, in other words—though sleeveless dresses and A-line tunic frocks were more summer than winter. New fabrics, like a papery silk linen and a glittering, Lurex-threaded brocade, suggested steps forward. This did feel more like the itemized collections of days past than Alan s recent presentations, but it was none the worse for that. There are plenty of pieces that a shopper would be happy to find on the rack, from a midi-length polka-dot-print tank dress to a washed-out stripy sweatshirt with a drawstring, bow-tied waist.