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"I had fun with this one," Jonathan Saunders said, riffling through the eye-popping racks at his Resort presentation. Color, separates, and the seventies were the takeaways from the collection, along with a new Cutler and Gross-manufactured sunglasses capsule and a 12-piece evening dress range made with Hollywood types in mind.

The Scottish designer is in growth mode, and it s easy to see why. For one thing, there s the mix-and-match versatility that his emphasis on sportswear provides. "When people stopped being afraid of separates, it opened up a whole new world for me," he said. And for another (and this is more important), there s an approachable irreverence to these clothes—the straightforward shapes and the surprising colors and patterns. His ombré polka-dot pieces practically vibrate, they re so bright, and there s no ignoring graphic, almost "off" combinations like a cherry red polo sweater in a slimming viscose knit and leaf green jacquard pants. "Optimistic," he called the collection. Who can resist that?