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Escada

RESORT 2014

By Daniel Wingate

Escada has been working to reestablish its visibility and relevance over the past several seasons. The new Resort lineup is a step in the right direction, but Daniel Wingate and his design team could stand to kick it up if they really want to raise the label s fashion cred. Seaside towns dotting the Mediterranean coast served as the collection s jumping-off point, and that inspiration translated to a color palette of sun-drenched pastel hues—canary yellow, blush rose, and powder blue—and the faded Liguria tile print, which turned up on a cap-sleeve sheath.

Highlights included pretty blouses and pencil skirts adorned with feminine ruffles, as well as a pin-tucked day dress that looked like it could have been cut from delicate organza but was in fact an ultra-gauzy knit. In the eveningwear category, slim tuxedos (some decorated with the house s signature gold-bullion embroidery at the wrists) and an off-the-shoulder number with floating seams looked fresh. The biggest standouts were the cropped jackets done in perforated, laser-cut, or basket-woven leather. Escada s committed customer is reportedly responding to more detailed pieces like those lately, so Wingate and co. ought to keep them coming.