Henry Holland s collections are never made for shrinking violets, but this one in particular seemed designed for the girl occupying center stage. Indeed, Holland s inspiration this time out was openly stagy: Not only was he referencing Motown girl groups and the atmosphere of sixties-era variety shows, like Ed Sullivan s, but Holland even took one of his prints straight from an old Jackson 5 concert backdrop. That print, a "psychedelic parquet," as he termed it (though he confessed that someone else had come up with that apt phrase), was one of several motifs. Other key visuals included a bold starburst pattern, glitter, oversize crystal "polka-dot" embroidery, rococo bell sleeves, and peplum skirt and dress hems.
In other words, there was a lot going on. Much of this House of Holland collection was rather natty—one cue Holland took from the Supremes was to create coordinating cocktail frocks and evening coats, and as a general matter there was a dressiness to the tailoring and showy sleeves and flounces. As is his wont, Holland pushed that attitude right to the edge of camp. But then, his girl wouldn t have it any other way.
