Just a few weeks ago, Issa founder Daniella Helayel announced her departure from the London-based label she founded, and Chloé alum Blue Farrier was installed as the new creative director. This year s Resort collection got lost in the middle of the changes, with neither designer available to speak about it.
A few quotes from the design team explained that this season was influenced by "the romantic, sun-drenched shores of Capri and the rich marine life of its tranquil sapphire seas." Helayel s work for Issa was grounded in her colorful Brazilian background, and that was still evident at times here. Many prints used what felt like every color of the rainbow: Some looked good; others, including an "under-the-sea" design resplendent with fish, coral, and the like more appropriate for Boca Raton than Capri, looked less so.
In 2011, retail royal Camilla Al Fayed took a 51 percent stake in Issa, urging its expansion by capitalizing on the support of Kate Middleton. That strategy will work for a while, but eventually people tire of a certain look—in this case, Middleton s favorite wrap dress, which featured heavily in the collection. It ll be interesting to see what Farrier brings to the table, and if she s able to maintain the brand s very specific DNA while moving it forward.
