The paradox of fall s lush severity reemerged in Marni s Resort collection—not as lush, not as severe, but still precisely structured, controlled—and still nibbling at paradox. Or maybe it was just Consuelo Castiglioni s natural affection for eccentricity that inspired her to line a sophisticated jacket in double-face wool crepe with worn-looking white cotton, or hem a suit, also crepe, in a thick wool fringe, or leave the collar unfinished on an otherwise lush brocade coat. A collection founded on one of Castiglioni s most impressively straightforward celebrations of femininity was undercut by the distinctly masculine slouch of a parka or an almost-military coat, and what might almost pass for a tracksuit. At a pinch, the bags (a cyclist s satchel) and sandals had a kind of no-fuss athleticism.
On the whole, though, what stood out most was an intense womanliness. The designer was partial to a boxy tunic shape cinched over skirts or pants at the waist—or slightly higher—with a bowed belt. Skirts fell straight, just below the knee, or flared out peasant style. Add an elbow-length sleeve, and the effect was sleek enough that it made even a bordering-on-kitsch wallpaper-y print look like the height of sophistication. The richness and darkness of the color palette helped, too.
