While the final result is never predictable, there are certain elements you can expect to find in most Yigal Azrouël collections, and the designer s latest Resort collection worked within his established language. Azrouël tends to favor a body-conscious silhouette, and here he showed curve-hugging sheaths with geometric necklines and zippers that trailed along the spine, as well as bustier tops and second-skin leggings cut from alligator embossed leather. He also called attention to the figure with sheer, contrasting mesh seams that were engineered to flattering effect on a long white column gown.
Motorcycle jackets are consistent best sellers for Azrouël, and this season he posed the question: "How do you do a biker that doesn t feel too heavy?" His solution: swapping out standard leather for a breezy eyelet with grommetlike holes that was equal parts tough and sweet. The topper was one of the collection s standouts, as was a printed neoprene set that included a cropped rash-guard top and a matching flouncy skirt that gave the illusion of multiple layers. Several of the menswear-inspired looks here were welcome surprises—in particular, a sturdy cotton double-breasted shorts suit and a tailored tuxedo. Overall, though, while the lineup successfully updated some of Azrouël s signatures, it also felt a bit too safe.
