Skip to main content

Akris

RESORT 2015

By Albert Kriemler

Albert Kriemler had Morocco on his mind for Akris Resort collection. The North African country has been a fashion nexus since at least the days of Yves Saint Laurent, but Kriemler s is a Morocco less traveled. Rather than Marrakech or Tangier, he looked to a city in the Rif Mountains called Chefchaouen, famous for its blue-painted buildings. Blue, no surprise then, was the show s dominant color. A navy wrap coat stood out for the leather it was made in—it was paper thin—but there was no shortage of ultra-fine fabrics here. From the simple to the sublime, others worth noting included the triple-twist cotton of an elongated button-front shirt, and a waterproof material used for a trench that looked and felt like cashmere. Kriemler specializes in photo prints. Of the two he used this season—a landscape of Chefchaouen s remarkable architecture and an image of spools of thread found in a souk—the former was more compelling. It came across especially well when it was abstracted so that it appeared more like a graphic geometric pattern than a photo. By and large, Kriemler s focus was on daytime clothes, the kind you could imagine Akris well-heeled clientele packing for a long weekend getaway. There were only a couple of evening looks to speak of. A floor-scraping organza overlay worn with a strapless sequined cocktail number was a real sparkler.