Antonio Marras collections are often born of densely multilayered concepts, but for Resort 2015 he streamlined. At a presentation of his latest offering, the designer showed a Johnny Moncada photo of Veruschka on Sardinia s Costa Smeralda, cutting a svelte line against her scrubby, wild surroundings. It s a stark, strong image (not unlike the model herself; Marras was quick to note that she refused to cut her hair in an era when shorn tresses were de rigueur), but that s where the austerity ended here.
On offer were a riot of color and a fracas of richly embellished fabrics that sang—and at points screamed, albeit joyously. The palette took cues from the Sardinian landscape and sent them into overdrive; foliage became a brilliant emerald, the water a pale aqua, sunsets a powder pink and an electric fuchsia. Prints leaned toward pop florals. Particularly strong were a graphic rose jacquard fil coupe and Deco-y Lurex knits. Under the Laboratoria umbrella, where Marras more couture proclivities run free, fuchsia lace topped brocade, and pink cloque was scattered with paillette details. The designer also debuted a capsule of coated denim pieces ("I love a challenge!" he remarked), embellished with macramé lace and chunky crystals.
If this all sounds like a lot…it was. But the saving grace: the silhouettes. Swingy mod-tinged shapes and easy fits did wonders to stave off a sense of heaviness, and the overall effect was flirty rather than fussy. Marras second footwear collection, complete with pink pony-hair creepers, helped, too.
