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"Race to the Grave," the T-shirts at Diesel Black Gold pronounced. Bikers themselves may or may not have a death wish, but the biker look never gets old. Andreas Melbostad returned to it for Diesel Black Gold s new Resort collection, studding and stenciling every inch of black leather moto jackets; cutting denim miniskirts pelmet-short; and otherwise infusing the offering with its usual tough-as-nails vibe.

Another fashion perennial he tapped into this season: rockabilly. It came through in twisted Hawaiian print shirts with contrasting yokes and razor-sharp pinstriped jackets and stovepipe pants. They added a slightly dandified, somewhat more dressed-up new dimension to the label s current profile. A neoprene-bodice Hawaiian-print slipdress was almost sweet. But denim and leather remain the focal point of this brand, a point that came across in the diverse ways Melbostad treated denim. Indigo jeans dyed a deep red were subtle and cool, but the best was a pair of red denim cigarette jeans covered in messy stripes of waxy black paint. They looked utterly badass accompanied by a black tuxedo jacket with a built-in pocket chain.