Since launching Hellessy just over a year and a half ago, Sylvie Millstein has been quietly making waves with her refined take on casual luxury. Before relocating to New York from Paris and starting her line (the moniker is a mash-up of her first name with those of sons Hendrix and Lennox), Millstein was working behind the scenes in merchandising for nearly a decade at Chanel. "So I know about chic," she said at a preview of Hellessy s first Resort collection. "I know what women are looking for. For me, it s got to have that nonchalance. The clothes have to be timeless and flattering above all." Indeed, there s a certain French sensibility in the way Millstein avoids trends and ostentation in favor of cool, calm, and collected classics. Focusing on a fresh, neutral color palette, the designer elevated easy sportswear shapes such as an elongated T-shirt dress, which was paired with a chunky, hand-loomed hoodie. Knitwear is an expanding category (apparently, retailers including Barneys can t get enough of Hellessy s wovens), and another highlight was a blanket-like cashmere cardigan styled with a wispy camisole and shirred khaki leggings that had scrunched-up appeal. "I love the sensual way it shrugs off the shoulder," said Millstein. Elsewhere, a loose white wrap blouse shown with languid, wide-leg trousers also had an alluring softness. While the lineup s overall look was decidedly relaxed, Millstein introduced structure in the form of a snug canvas surplus jacket featuring a sculpted peplum flounce in back. Other winning moments included a petal pink off-the-shoulder dress; a supple leather overshirt shown with a body-skimming silk maxi dress; and a series of polished, dark indigo pieces that marked the label s first foray into denim. This carefully considered collection reflected Millstein s elegantly modern approach to wardrobe essentials, and showed that Hellessy is an emerging brand to watch.
