Monique Lhuillier covered a lot of ground with her wide-ranging Resort lineup. On the one hand, the commercial nature of the season calls for zeroing in on best sellers, which in Lhuillier s case means offering plenty of glamorous eveningwear. (You d be hard-pressed to find a red-carpet event without at least a couple of starlets in her pretty gowns.) Still, the designer has been using recent pre-collections to expand her growing daywear and cocktail categories, which she successfully articulated here. Resort opened on a comparatively casual note with a boxy shift cut from buttery suede in a vivid shade of pool blue. Moving into a series of black-and-white looks with architectural-inspired shapes, Lhuillier whipped up sophisticated separates like a structured cap-sleeve top paired with a full skirt in embossed gazar. Meanwhile, a vacation-ready caftan, strapless maxi dress, and fluttery halter-neck tank conveyed a convincing sense of ease with their languid silhouettes and soft, sunburst pleating. "You don t want to be so nipped in or constrained all the time," said the designer.
Focusing on shorter hemlines, Lhuillier created a sweet cotton pique frock featuring side cutouts and an allover ombré heart print, as well as a standout navy number with a dramatic, bow-like drape in back. Those styles would be fresh teamed with flat sandals, but there were plenty of stiletto-worthy moments, too. As is often the case, many of Lhuillier s formal confections boasted all-out embellishment and intricate lace, but it was the relatively restrained gowns that had more modern appeal. Highlights included vibrant, color-blocked tea-length gowns and a fuchsia skirt with tiers of tulle that was shown with a matching T-shirt-like cape. All in all, the new collection felt recognizable while simultaneously pushing Lhuillier s aesthetic forward.
