It was the quintessential boy-meets-girl story at Sportmax s Resort presentation this morning. Maintaining a linear purity while simultaneously introducing elements of flou, the design studio added plissé details to sensible A-line dresses cut from bonded jersey, and also featured folds on the back of a slouchy suit. The emphases on soft pleating and nipped-in silhouettes felt like relatively unexplored territory for the Italian brand known for its smart tailoring and luxurious outerwear; they were welcome developments.
The best looks were the ones that achieved dynamic movement. A trapeze-shaped coatdress featuring allover pleats, for example, appeared to float with each step the model took, while a simple wrap top paired with its matching maxi skirt glided elegantly across the floor. The color palette was predominantly focused on inky blacks and blues, but the Sportmax team didn t shy away from bold hues and prints entirely. Unconstructed topcoats rendered in vibrant shades of mint green and persimmon double-faced wool were worn over relaxed trousers and refined T-shirts; a fuchsia-and-red combination seemed particularly fresh coming off of Fall s unexpected brights trend. Gary Hume s artwork inspired the graphic scribble and brushstroke patterns found on jacquard coats, breezy silk tunics, and slim pants. Compared with the messy abstractions of Jackson Pollock s paintings seen on Sportmax s most recent runway, these artsier pieces were more successful in their relative restraint.
