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Boss

RESORT 2016

By Jason Wu

The Boss woman, as Jason Wu thinks of her, is a commanding type. She s got an office with a billion-dollar view (the company s new headquarters 48 floors above Water Street has pretty decent ones, too, by the way) and a wardrobe as exacting and efficient as her mind. In his first few seasons at the German brand, Wu hasn t ventured too far beyond what she might wear to work and, with the exception of a dress here and there for his bold-faced friends, to her business functions afterward.

At his mini show today, he said he set his sights on more casual attire, but before you begin contemplating a Boss tracksuit, it wasn t as casual as all that. Yes, there were knits, but his V-necks were cut with a second-skin rigor. And, sure, his jacquard was inspired by sand dunes, but Wu s dunes are as precise as they come. Still, it was nice to see him expand his Boss universe. Those sexy knits looked terrific slipped into the waistband of wrap-style midi skirts. But for all the focus on ease, as with Wu s previous collections for the brand, his suiting remained the best thing going here. That points to two things: 1) Wu s skills as a tailor, and 2) the lack of chic, straight-up suits out there. Wu would be smart to make more of them.