Angela Missoni cited abstract artist Sonia Delaunay, whose retrospective is currently on at the Tate Modern in London, as a source of inspiration for Resort. It s easy to see why Missoni would embrace Delaunay, who not only painted colorful, geometric mosaics but created tapestries and even designed clothes. Missoni s mother, Rosita, is also a longtime admirer of the artist.
To channel Delaunay this time around, the designer dabbed painterly prints onto silk blouses, and patchworked space-dyed knits into long dresses and tapered trousers. But it was the generous use of the classic "stereo-waves" pattern—in everything from a blazer to a minidress—that felt freshest. Design-wise, a reverse pleat on the back of several dresses was a nice, unexpected touch.
At the end, there was a Lurex moment. The spongy, fluffy oversize cardigan absorbed the sparkle enough to make it palatable. That s when a collection like this works best: when the blast of color or shine is rendered in such a way that makes it impossible not to like.