A little bit of play does anyone good. Such was the case with Samu-Jussi Koski s most recent Resort outing, where the Finnish designer kicked up his heels a bit more than usual. Play s always been there, of course. To wit, Spring s tinsel and banjo-playing mermaids, to say nothing of Koski s former post as creative director of the singularly whimsical Marimekko. But here it came to life in more subtly eccentric ways that jived beautifully with the designer s arty, soigné sensibility. Case in point: the nubby metallic tweed, which Koski whipped into a softly shimmering bomber and shorts, or one of the collection s standout richly hued velvet palazzo pants and maxi skirt. Fabrications remain the jumping-off point for all Samuji outings, and an array of top-shelf materials lend even Koski s simplest propositions a wonderful lushness. His always-standout outerwear this season came in pink cashmere wool, while signature shapes of dresses and skirts came in transparent silk, silk velvet, and silk cotton. And if Koski s powerhouse indie label isn t yet a household name stateside, his bids to become a complete lifestyle brand could soon change that. November saw the launch of an impeccably curated home-goods range, and for Fall, Opening Ceremony, as of now the exclusive retailer of Samuji s menswear lineup, will debut the women s collection.
