Yohji Yamamoto

This season, Yohji Yamamoto turned his attention to suiting and draping—swathing and wrapping the body in his unique, highly evolved manner.

br His masculine take on pinstripes and black suits consisted of strong-shouldered, side-fastening coat jackets with long, asymmetric tails. Trousers were loose and sometimes oversize: There was a huge-waisted pair cinched at the hips, with excess fabric dangling at the side. Fluid black dresses were gathered at the side and featured a train that could be attached to the wrist, the hem draping around the body. Deceptively simple-looking columns had extra panels that could become practical pockets; there was also a sumptuously knit sweater, skirt and tote combo.

Experimentation is a given at any Yamamoto show, so it was no surprise when fluid gowns appeared complete with built-in bags. Some were cinched and attached to the back of the dress, while others, strategically placed on the side, became perfect hand warmers. The most dazzling look: a flowing strap dress with a sequined coin purse, complete with hardware clasp, resting at the back—the perfect marriage between function and design.