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Forget fitted silhouettes and uptight elegance. Tom Ford is ushering in a relaxed, laid-back feeling at Gucci.

Ford s new aesthetic marries hip-hop savoir faire—ultra-casual pants and asymmetrical-seam jackets were cut extra-wide—with Route 66 favorites like raw suede blazers, desert tops, and large coats that lace in the back. A stunning liquidy silk skirt was embellished with large floral cutouts; explorer shorts were worn with skimpy superfine knits. Ford showed gently gathered smocks and a double-layered black dress riveted with diminutive eyelet hooks—furthering the fresh spin on the romantic concepts he has explored of late.

While not everyone will embrace Ford s new supersized proportions, there is bound to be unanimous enthusiasm for his self-assured evening gowns: frothy Empire concoctions that fall to the floor, with draped backs that offer a voyeuristic peek at the rigorously laced corsets underneath.