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Pretty may be the trend for spring, but it’s nothing new for Vera Wang; she’s made a career of unfussy elegance. Her latest collection, full of lovely, understated separates and drop-dead gowns that are red-carpet ready, showcased her undeniable skill.

She touched on the season’s mood with stunning jersey goddess gowns in rich green and brilliant red that worked as perfect foils to Wang s diamond jewelry. The twenties feeling came up via cocktail dresses embroidered with scallops of gold thread and, in one example, embellished with a tart chartreuse ribbon. The slightly raised waistline that she used throughout the collection—even a snug navy coat had a high belt at the back—referred to a gentler, more ladylike era without ever getting sentimental or overly retro. In fact, Wang knows how to keep it modern, too: She paired a classic smoking with the most feminine tops (think pleated tulle, embroidered net) and beautifully-cut tuxedo trousers, a totally contemporary look that provided the perfect balance to her plethora of charming party dresses.